An eventful day, that brought about the most intense pangs of loss and sadness on the trip thus far. We had a nice long snooze and camp break, along with a hot breakfast, then set about our approach to Muir Pass some 2500 feet up. We climbed up along the cascading river, then bench lake after bench lake, several of them being false summits. I met up with storytime, who asked me about an odd sounding bird (sooty grouse), then pointed out a small frog he saw. Eureka! first SNYLF of the trip. I observed several more in the same shallow rivulet crossing the trail. I had been looking for them semi-diligently but had not seen them yet. A marmot halfway through shedding its winter coat boldly cruised around us.
Continued climb up the lakes. Many frogs. The ascent was the longest and most drawn out of the bunch so far, though it was the snowiest. The patchiness of the snow made efficient use of micro spikes difficult. Saw muirs hut @ top, gazed at relatively hemmed-in feeling mountain peaks encircling the pass on either side, then started down. Shallow descent of 400' to first lake, the huge Wanda lake. Many frogs @ 11,500! Lots of counting and photos.
Step-down descent through lake stretching from wall to wall for miles, to the next one. Stopped for a much-needed lunch at the head of Evolution Meadow. Saw track meet.
Splendid, easy trail through the fantastic Evolution meadow valley, approx 6 mi long. Was able to see a dominant peak, the hermit, almost the whole time. We took an alternative route thru the meadow to ford the snowmelt-swollen creek. Water was knee deep and wonderful feeling. Fee were wet most of the day on acct of water and snow.
Descending out of Evolution meadow, I felt pangs of sadness to leave the high country and alpine passes. We would be sleeping below 9,000' for the first time since Kennedy meadows 9 days ago. I already missed its stark beauty and splendor, the unspoiled views and crisp feel. Seemingly inhospitable, but teeming with hearty life forms during the booming high season. The power of water visible on every scale. The feeling of being literally miles above the ocean, scraping the heavens with ragged stone claws.... I loved every second of the high country, and wasn't even done! More passes between here and mammoth - not to mention the Yosemite high country - but here I was feeling sad about this particular portion of the range, the intense clustering of massive peaks about Whitney. Ah well, the plight of the thru hiker. Never anywhere in particular to be, but always somewhere to go.
Our somewhere was beneath a huge cedar in the middle of an Aspen grove. Had a nice dinner of rice and beans with erbswurst, then hit the hay. Shins are gonna hurt tomorrow.
Passed halfway mark thru CA!
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